No matter who we are, there comes a time in life when we need to dress up. Be it for a wedding, a funeral or even something as mundane as the office, some form of dress shoe is needed.
There’s something nice about such a shoe. It offers many of us the chance to elevate ourselves in a slick and classy way. Even a pair of jeans can look classy, though it’s suggested not to go further. Few can pull off the dreaded ‘dress shoe/cargo shorts’ combo.
There is one question, however, that remains unanswered and may even be the subject of many a debate. That question is whether to wear Brogues or Oxfords. Well, now is as good a time as any to discuss such a topic and see if we can get to the bottom of this.
Is there even a definitive winner? Is one shoe better than the other? Or are there specific times when a pair of Brogues might be more appropriate than an Oxford, or vice versa? Let’s find out.
Know Your Footwear: Key Features & Characteristics of Each Dress Shoe
Now before we pit these shoes together, we need to know exactly what we’re talking about. What is an Oxford? How are Brogues different? The defining characteristics of each dress shoe must first be set.
Brogues Definition
The shape of the toe cap—a piece of leather or other material added over the toe box—determines the style of the Brogue. The most popular styles are full Brogue, also known as “wingtip” in the US, Semi-brogue, and quarter Brogue. The longerwing Brogue style is less common. Brogues are most frequently available as leather dress shoes, but they can also be found as boots, canvas or leather sneakers, or any other style of shoe that resembles or incorporates the multi-piece design and perforated, serrated edges that define Brogues.
There are also different ‘levels’ of Brogues such as:
Full Brogues: Often referred to as wingtips, they are distinguished by having a pointed toe cap with wings that extend to both sides of the toe and end close to the ball of the foot. The “wingtips” style term, which is widely used in the US, is derived from the “W” shaped toe cap style, which seems like an expanded bird’s wings when viewed from above. A complete Brogue’s toe cap has extra ornamental holes in the centre, known as the medallion, in addition to being perforated and serrated around the edges.
Semi-brogues: A straight-edged toe cap with ornamental perforations and serration along the cap’s edge, together with extra decorative holes in the middle of the toe cap termed a medallion, are characteristics of Semi-brogues or Half-brogues.
Quarter Brogues: A toe cap with ornamental perforations and serrations just along the cap’s edge—as well as the absence of decorative perforations in the middle of the cap, are characteristics of quarter Brogues. Since quarter Brogues are the most formal dress shoes with Brogues, they go better with business clothes than Semi-brogues and full Brogues.
Longwing Brogues: Also known as the ‘American Brogues, ’ have the distinctive feature of longwing Brogues is their wings, which run the whole length of the shoe and connect at the heel’s central seam.
Of course, there are variants and subcategories within each class, but these cover most. The most common material used for such shoes are leather, traditionally sturdy leather, too, as they were originally outdoor shoes.
Oxford Shoes
Oxford shoes are unique in that the eyelet portion is hidden inside the vamp. A timeless formal dress shoe, this model will never go out of style.
These Oxfords are a fantastic representation of the classic black cap-toe style. Oxford shoes have a more formal appearance than blutchers and have a tendency to hold their shape a little bit better over time. These shoes are less ‘flashy’ than Brogues, in some senses, as they tend not to come with layered patterns and, instead, are made with one leather.
Make no mistake, an Oxford can be a Brogue! As long as the Oxford shoe in question has ‘brogueing’ on it. However, the point of this article is to determine whether these brogued patterns are necessary and, if so, when they are called for.
Occasions & Pairing: Best Times for Oxfords Or Brogues
As mentioned above, the Brogued shoes were originally meant for outdoor activities, such as hunting. For this reason, they were seen as casual shoes by the upper class and wearing such shoes to a formal event would be frowned upon.
Of course, these were the days of the stiff upper lip. Little did they know that the term ‘casual’ had not even seen its day. If the unsuspecting gentlemen of yesterday could see the Yeezys in wedding pictures, they may have been more inviting of the Brogue.
Today, Brogues have snuck their way into formal occasions, and only the traditionally trained eye would think they seemed out of place. Many modern gentlemen don these shoes at weddings, boat parties or even the work barbeque. In fact, many people see these shoes as the more ‘extra’ of the two mentioned in this post. For this reason, we suggest, if wearing this shoe, to lean into that view. If worn with jeans and an untucked button shirt, we suggest leaving that extra button open. A flashy watch could even be appropriate.
If a suit is called for, we call for a vibrant pocket square! Maybe even some modern-inspired cufflinks.
As for Oxfords, it may be wise to go with a more traditional attire. This is by no means worse, as such wears never go out of style and, if done correctly, can even outshine the flash!
Unlike the Brogue, which had to wait for the standard of ‘casual’ to be lowered to be invited to the party, the Oxford sent out the invites. This shoe was designed to be formal and will never be questioned. In the event of wearing a pair of Oxfords, we suggest not to peacock. Wearing that vibrant shirt or that patterned jacket may drown out the simplicity of the shoe. Instead, a pair of black jeans and a well-fitted white shirt will do the trick.
Sometimes, a suit will be needed. If this is the case, go with the standard well-fitted black or navy blue suit. Trust the clothes; so long as they fit, there will be no denying the class. If a little extra flair is craved, a nice watch will not drown out the wears.
Pros & Cons of Both The Oxford And Brogue Style
Of course, each shoe has its issues, not necessarily with quality but with style. There is a wrong way to wear either. Remember, we already mentioned that the trained eye still sees the Brogue as a casual shoe, so some places may still frown upon wearing them… especially if they were built to attract attention. But again, that’s what they’re for! To attract attention and to ask anything else of them would be unreasonable.
The Oxford can also be seen as a bit ‘stiff’ to many, even boring if not worn with the right clothes. We may even say that unless they were made well, they are boring. The simplicity of their design, while timeless, may be drowned out by any unnecessary flash. Still, the word must be said again, timeless! These shoes exude elegance, and like all things elegant, they are delicate and must be treated with respect. Their formality is also without question, which can not be said for most shoes out there, most having to plead their case.
BONUS: Care & Maintenance Tips For The Brogue And Oxford Shoe
Now, with either shoe, proper care is a must. Especially if the pair is expensive and well made, leather is both fragile and resistant at the same time. If not taken care of properly, it will crack. However, if it receives the right amount of love, leather will last a lifetime.
Step 1: Clean Regularly
Brogues: Due to the intricate perforations, dirt can easily accumulate. Use a soft brush to gently remove surface dirt. For deeper cleaning, use a damp cloth and mild soap, ensuring you get into the crevices.
Oxford Shoes: Wipe with a dry cloth to remove surface dirt. For stains, use a damp cloth with a touch of mild soap.
Step 2: Condition
Leather shoes can dry out over time. Apply a quality leather conditioner to keep the material supple. This prevents cracks and maintains the shoe’s natural shine.
Step 3: Polish
Brogues: Choose a polish that matches the shoe colour. Apply in circular motions, paying extra attention to the toe and heel areas.
Oxford Shoes: Use a high-quality polish to maintain the shoe’s elegant finish. Buff with a soft cloth until you achieve the desired shine.
The best shoe polish for that extra shine is the Tarrago Self Shine Shoe Polish. Take a look (not an affiliate link).
Step 4: Waterproof
Especially if you live in a rainy area, consider using a waterproofing spray. This protects the leather from water damage and potential stains.
Step 5: Rotate Your Shoes
Avoid wearing the same pair daily. Rotating between shoes allows them to air out, reducing moisture buildup and odour.
Step 6: Use Shoe Trees
Insert cedar shoe trees after each wear. They maintain the shoe’s shape, absorb moisture, and neutralize odours.
Step 7: Store Properly
Store your shoes in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. If possible, keep them in cloth bags to prevent dust accumulation.
Step 8: Address Repairs Promptly
Regularly inspect the soles and heels for wear. If you notice significant wear or damage, take them to a professional cobbler for repairs.
Step 9: Mind the Laces
Remove and wash laces separately if they become dirty. Replace them if they start to fray. If the lacing is already damaged, get new lacing that matches the shoe correctly.
Step 10: Avoid Direct Heat
If your shoes get wet, let them dry naturally. Avoid placing them near heaters or using hairdryers, as direct heat can warp the leather and cause it to dry out.
For Brogues with suede or nubuck finishes, invest in a quality suede protector spray and a special suede brush. This ensures the material remains clean and retains its unique texture. Following these steps is the best way to properly care for any leather shoe collection. To many, it is the difference between a boy and a man.
Difference Between Oxfords And Brogues
So, to sum it up, the difference between oxfords and brogues is in the details – quite literally. While it’s certainly not the case that both a brogue and an oxford are interchangeable terms, an oxford can have brogue detailing, making them brogue shoes…right?
Kind of…However, we must remember the other primary difference between oxford and brogue shoes. The lacing of the shoe is another important factor in the definition of the shoe. Oxfords have closed lacing, and any shoe with open lacing does not fit the Oxford style. An Oxford brogue shoe has to follow that lacing rule to still be considered an Oxford, or else it could be considered too casual. Why? Because fashion says so!
Features such as broguing can be found everywhere, from a stylish leather boot to leather accessories, even belts.
The Oxford Brogue Collection
As the oxford vs brogues discussion comes to an end, let’s take a look at some stores which offer some of the best oxford or brogues in fashion today. None of these are affiliate links at this time.
The Gucci Men’s Lace-up shoe with Brogue Details:
If both high quality and high fashion is on the menu, we recommend this brogued Gucci shoe. With both style and designer status, this shoe is bound to be the star of the night.
The Calvin Klein Men’s Brodie Burnished Dress Calf Oxford:
It’s nice when Amazon offers luxury items and accessories; this is one of those times. This pair of shiny black oxfords are perfect for that special occasion, maybe even paired with a tux. Calvin Klein sells plenty of products on Amazon, from shoes, jackets and shirts for both men and women.
Clarks Craft Arlo Limit leather brogues:
From FARFETCH, we have a nice pair of Clarks brogues for just under $250, which is pretty decent for FARFETCH standards. With the outer and the lining both made from genuine calf leather, these shoes are the definition of quality at a bargain.
